Sunday 9 March 2008

Spectacular vernacular

A while back I was enthusing about the buildings of Cesky Krumlov – especially their painted facades and plasterwork like elaborate cake-icing. Well, there are delicious buildings in the Bohemian countryside too, and the sight of a group of vernacular-baroque farmhouse fronts arranged along the edge of a village green is one of the pleasures of this region. Probably the best place to see this is the village of Holasovice, where the long green with its pond and tiny church is completely lined with lovely plaster-covered houses. Most of them have the typical local courtyard-farm layout of a pair of wings on either side of a central gate. Some have simple pointed gables, some go the whole baroque hog, with curvaceous gables and all kinds of charming decorations. Quite a few bear dates from the 19th century, although I don’t know whether these dates relate to the building of the houses or are when the plasterwork took its present form. Whichever, the place is a delight, and an easy drive north from Cesky Krumlov.

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